Saturday, December 7, 2013

Thursday - a sunny day to explore Montmartre and a tiny bit of French Society....

Lots of pics for Thursday December 5, a wonderfully sunny day with blue sky in Paris.
I watched this chap hanging off the tower of Notre Dame, a stone mason I guess doing some work.

 This gives an idea of the scale
 Then I noticed the people on the top of the tower's look out.
They are like little ants.
I have been familiarising myself with the Metro system - 14 lines (there is another system RER which I have left alone). Today I figured out how to get the train to Montmartre, just one change at Concorde. But I hopped off at Madeleine to see the huge Church.


So Neoclassical in style and if I remember based on a classical temple at Nimes. Napoleon commissioned the church as a tribute to his army in 1806. Previously it was to this spot that the remains of Louis XVI were taken after his execution in 1790 for a few words and burial.
After Napoleon's demise, under the restored Louis XVIII it became a Catholic Church again dedicated to Mary Magdalene. Because these things take so long to build, history and politics change. Anyway it ended up finally consecrated in 1842. It's position is spectacular.

This huge boulevard ends at the Place de La Concorde which is in tomorrow's blog. 
From the Metro Abbesses I found the funicular which takes a normal metro ticket and up up up to Sacre Coeur atop Montmartre.
 It is very spectacular and lovely with some remnants of autumn colour
This was commissioned and paid for by public subscription as a recompense for the terrible times of 1871.
There was a sudden jostle amongst the young hawkers who flew down the hill with a few police in pursuit.
It may be where I am staying but I have seen police everywhere. Cops on motor cycles, police on bicycles. There are constant reminders about pickpockets everywhere too.
So the view - fabulous. The next few shots pan from left to right which is east to west I think. This shows the huge Gare du Nord.
 Panning west not sure whet the huge cathedral is yet.
 This shows how Paris is low rise, skyscrapers are away from the old city.

Towards the top right side of this photo you can see the Pompidou centre.

 The towards the top of this you see the twin towers of Notre Dame
 In the distance must be Monparnasse which I have yet to explore.
Into the westerly sun and the Eiffel Tower is still further west. All fantastic. 
On late Friday afternoon I went down into the museum below the Notre Dame forecourt. This houses the excavated site and the history of Paris from Roman times through the medieval time up to recently. You can walk around the excavations and see the old city explained in models. It's amazing to see the evolution of such an ancient city.
 This is the Musee Montmartre.
 Apparently this is one of the oldest houses on the hill - C17th. Apparently Renoir painted quite a few of his works here in the garden, for example the Woman by a Swing
 This is the view back to the House that holds the ticket office. It faces onto the street and next door is a huge refurbishment for the museum which will have a cafe and many more galleries. I'd say that when that new space opens they may transfer the collection from the current fragile structure.
 A view west from the museum.
A view east back up towards Sacre Coeur
 Adjacent to the museum is a piece of empty land - a rarity on Montmartre.
 No one is allowed here
This is behind the museum looking down the hill.
 Looking across to the north west
 Looking north.
Again no photos were allowed. The collection is mainly of prints made by a collection of people associated with Montmartre. There was a room with the old zinc bar from the Lapin Agile and lots of posters. Another room celebrated Le Chat Noir. Then a room about the can can and the Moulin Rouge. This is a photo of Jane Avril.
Later on I found the Eiffel Tower at sunset.
 So I had dinner at a brasserie on the Place du Tertre. This is where all the 'artists' display their wares in the square and all the tourists have a look.

The Christmas lights were great. It was busy until dark then most of the painters go home. A few diehard 'artists' in berets and warm coats walk up and down with their folio trying to sell stuff to the tourists. I was happy inside.
This is the home of  lady whom I visited after dinner. An experience being the only non French speaker at an evening of neighbours and old friends. The home is full of her late husband's paintings and sculptures.
 I'm not sure if this is a residence or a chapel but is was down the hill from the brasserie.
 One of the fabulous houses on the way down to Nicole's.
Another cluster of houses.
I found my way back to the Abbesses Metro station and whizzed home on the train. There are people around everywhere until late here and the streets are well lit. But you need a little torch or a phone with a light to see the keyhole and I'm glad there is a light for the spiralling very steep staircase.


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